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Teachers College Syllabi, No. 4 Price 30 Cents 




teachers College 
Columbia XDlniverstti? 



A Syllabus of a Course 



ON 



Elementary Woodworking 



BY 



WILLIAM NOYES, M.A. 

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS, TEACHERS COLLEGE 
COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 



Fublilhed by 

tJ^^atl^trB (HoU^QB. CdoUnnliUt Hntnrrfittg 

NEW YORK CITY 



'^ofiogTaph. 




Teachers College Syllabi, No. 4 Price 30 Cents 



XTeacbets College 
Columbia TUmveretti? 



A Syllabus of a Course 



ON 



Elementary Woodworking 



BY 



WILLIAM NOYES, M.A. 

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS, TEACHERS COLLEGE 
COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 



Published by 

©rarljprH OJollpgp, fliolumbta IntuprHttg 

NEW YORK. CITY 






Copyright, 1913, by Teachers College 



13- ^1^^ 



<^-o 



©CI,A34 38 2 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introdtjction I 

I Scrap Basket 4 

II Picture Frame Clamp 11 

III Picture Frame 14 

IV Candlestick 19 

V Taboret 24 

VI Mallet 30 

VII Pen Tray 34 

VIII Blotter Holder 37 

IX Trinket Box 39 

X Hanging Lantern 44 



ELEMENTARY ^A^OODWORKING 

INTRODUCTION 

The course in Elementary Woodworking, as given at 
Teachers College, aims to give the student three main oppor- 
tunities : 

I. For the acquisition of skill in the handling of woodworking 
tools ; 
II. For practice in designing simple projects in wood ; 
III. For insight into the methods and problems of woodwork 
in the school ("Manual Training"^ shop. 

I. In the following pages the outline of only the first of 
these objects is sketched : namely, a practicable method of pro- 
cedure in the acquisition of skill. It will be noted that the 
course here outlined is so planned that : 

1. A variety of woods is employed, each appropriate for 
its particular project. They are cypress, whitewood, maple, 
white pine, mahogany, chestnut, hickory, sweet gum, oak, and 
black walnut. 

2. In general, the technical processes involved increase in 
difficulty through the series, but aesthetic considerations are not 
sacrificed to this formula. 

3. Several types of construction are employed, involving 
such joints as end-lap, rubbed, miter, middle-cross-lap, doweled 
butt, mortise-and-tenon, and ledge. 

4. A few simple processes in copper working are included 
because their employment considerably extends the range of use- 
ful and ornamental projects available. 

5. A variety of finishes is suggested, including several 
methods of staining, as well as the use of such polishes as oil, 
wax, and shellac. 

In a word, the course involves a considerable variety of 
experience in technical processes. 

It is impossible, however, in these few pages to describe 
adequately fine points of technique. For some of these, refer- 
ences are made throughout the text to the author's books, "Hand 
Work in W^ood" and "Studies in Wood, Design and Con- 
struction."^ In the former book will also be found an extended 
bibliography of other books on woodworking. But let it not be 



1 The Manual Arts Press, Peoria, Illinois. 



2 Elementary IVoodzvorking 

forgotten that however helpful books may be to the worker, they 
cannot fill the place of class or individual instruction and demon- 
stration. 

It should not be supposed that the projects here outlined 
constitute a hard and fast course, for new ones are frequently in- 
troduced. Those described are offered as typical. 

In addition to the projects themselves, note books and draw- 
ings are required, as records of work accomplished. By a system 
of interchange of blue prints and photographs the designs of 
each student are available for all of the class. 

In the chapters following, other projects involving the same 
or similar processes are suggested and illustrations and notes on 
these may be found in "Studies in Wood." 

II. In the course as given at Teachers College, all but 
two of the projects, the picture frame clamp and the mallet, are 
such as to invite the worker to create his own designs. But in 
this pamphlet no attempt is made to discuss varied designs of 
the same project. A few general suggestions, however, may be 
offered for help in designing. 

Artistic judgment and skill of hand develop best when they 
develop together. Drawing furnishes an invaluable means of 
indicating and recording designs, and its constant use is recom- 
mended, not only as a means of expression, but as a record of 
achievement. 

It is also an exceedingly valuable practice to form a collec- 
tion of photographs of good examples of simple projects, to 
which constant reference can be made. If these can be mounted 
on a uniform size of mount, 83^ x 11 inches, they may be con- 
veniently kept in a vertical letter file. 

The projects here given belong in the field of the space arts 
in which there are certain well recognized principles. These are 
well analyzed and illustrated in the following books: "Composi- 
tion," by Arthur W. Dow; "A Theory of Pure Design," by 
Denman W. Ross ; "Design in Theory and Practice," by Ernest 
A. Batchelder. To this matter of design considerable attention 
is given in the author's "Studies in Wood, Design and Con- 
struction." 



Introduction 3 

It is of course impossible to reduce the subtle process of 
designing to a formula, but there are several important steps 
through which it may safely be said that the design of every 
project should go. 

1. The fixing of the essentials or those features which 
make for an article's convenience in use. Under this head such 
matters as the following are determined : 

a. The approximate or definite size. 

b. The kind of wood to be used. 

c. The construction, including: 

(i) Kind of joint or joints; 

(2) Methods of opening and shutting or locking; 

(3) Appliances for lifting or moving or hanging. 

2. The refining of proportions: 

a. of the mass as a whole ; 

b. of each part to the whole; 

c. of each part to each other part ; 

d. of each line within itself, if it curves or is a broken 

line, or is turned on a lathe. 

3. Decoration. This relates to the treatment of the surface: 

a. Carving, border or surface (all-over) patterns in 

gouged lines or modeled. 

b. Panels, carved in or constructed in. 

c. Inlay or veneer. 

d. Designing of accessories, handles, knobs, keys, plates, 

escutcheons. 

4. Finish. 

a. Stain. 

b. Paint. 

c. Oil. 

d. Wax. 

e. Shellac, including French polish. 

f. Varnish. 

III. It is inevitable that the individual craftsman, working 
alone, should develop certain methods and practices which are not 
feasible with large classes. On the other hand, where a number 
of persons are to go through essentially the same processes, as 
in school shops, materials can often be more economically pre- 
pared, processes can be standardized, and operations facilitated 
by concerted action. This is true even when individual projects, 
not group projects, so called, are undertaken. In the elementary 
woodworking course at Teachers College these methods are pro- 
vided for, but are necessarily omitted here. 



I. SCRAP BASKET 

In this project the prime object is to furnish an opportunity 
for considerable practice in sawing and planing, so that the be- 
ginner may master these elementary processes at once, and then 
to unite the pieces made in a useful, well-proportioned article. 

Other projects that involve these fundamental processes of 
sawing and planing are such as can be made with a number of 
slats — for example, a leaf press, a table letter basket and a flower 
pot screen. 

The making of only one type form is described here (Fig. 
i), but in the author's "Studies in Wood," Chapter IV, there 
will be found suggestions for making original designs as well as 
detailed directions for executing them, and drawings and sug- 
gestions for other similar projects. 

The pieces furnished to the student are to be cut to length 
and dressed both sides, so that narrow surface planing may pre- 
cede the more difficult end and broad surface planing. 

Materials and Measurements. 

Cypress, spruce, or other soft wood : 

2 pieces, Ji" x 8" x i6". 

I piece, %"x8"x8". 
Wire brads, T/g" No. i8. 

7 doz. metalene upholstering nails, No. 220, brown or green. 
I can of penetrating oil stain, brown or green. 
I can of prepared wax. 

Method of Procedure. 

1. Making the 28 slats, each 3/16" x ^" x 16". 

(i) Attend to the adjustments of the jack plane (see 
"Hand Work in Wood," pp. 69-71). (2) Mark one broad sur- 
face as the working face (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 72). 
If the board is slightly warped, mark the concave side. (3) Plane 
straight and square both edges of both boards. (4) Gage, with 
marking gage, lines on both sides of both pieces 3/16" from 
both edges (see Fig. 2). (5) Reset marking gage, adding }4" 
and gage lines 7/16" from edges. (6) Reset marking gage at 



Scrap Basket 




Fig. 1. Scrap basket. 



6 Elementary Woodzvorking 

10/ 1 6" m,"), and gage again. (7) Continue to gage spaces 
alternately 3/16" and }i" wide until 28 slats are laid out (see 
Fig. 2). 

(8) Fasten one board in bench- vise, as in Fig. 89 in 
"Hand Work in Wood." 




Fig. \t. Gaged lines on piece to be sawed into slats. 



(9) Rip-saw one board through the center of the first V^" 
space ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 63). Saw halfway through; 
reverse and saw the other half. 

(10) In like manner, saw off the slats from the other edge 
and from both edges of the other board. Lay aside the slats 
sawn off, and plane again the edges of the boards, planing so as 
just to split the 7/16" gage lines. 

(it) Saw off the next slats in a similar way, plane back to 
the next line and continue till 28 slats are sawn off. Plane the 
other (rough) side of each slat, till the gage line is split, making 
each slat 3/16" thick. Make all slats of uniform thickness 
throughout. 

(12) To facilitate this planing of thin slats, a device may 
be used such as is shown in Fig. 3. The distance from the in- 
serted cleat to the end is just less than the length of the slats 
to be planed. 

(13) Chamfer off ]/?," from both short arrises at one end 



Scrap Basket 7 

of each slat, as in Fig. i. (Use the chisel as in "Hand Work in 
Wood," Fig. 74.) 

II. Making the bottom. 

(i) Lay seven slats close side by side, measure their total 
width, and add six times 3/16", the space between the slats, or 
lyi". The total is the exact size of the bottom. This precau- 
tion is taken because the thickness of the original board may not 
have been exactly 74," . 




Fig. 3. Device for holding thin strips for planing. 



(2) Plane the bottom to this required size and ^" thick, 
following the order given on page 72 of "Hand Work in Wood." 

III. Making the cross cleats for frame. The piece left from 
making the slats may be used thus : 

( I ) Smooth the two broad surfaces, taking as fine shavings 
as possible. (2) Plane true one edge of the piece (16" long). 
(3) Gage a line iYa" from edge. (4) Saw oflf the surplus 
and plane to line. 



8 



Elewentary IVoodzvorking 



(5) Gage on the planed edges two lines 5/16" from each 
broad face. (6) Saw between these two lines and plane back 
to them, (y) Cut each of these cleats crosswise in the middle. 
(8) Temporarily, nail all four pieces together, with the sides 
and one end perfectly flush (Fig. 4), using 1%" No. 15 brads. 

(9) In the miter box, saw the bunch as long as the bottom 
is wide. (10) Measure 5/16" from both ends and lay out as 
in Fig. 4. (11) Place the bunch in the miter box again and saw 
on the outside of lines A B. (12) Chisel out the returns (C D. 
Fig. 4)- 




Fig. 4. Method of making and joining frame of scrap basket. 

(13) Take the cleats apart and nail them together, reversing 
two of them, so as to fit into the returns of the other two. Nail 
both ways (see Fig. 4). (14) Sandpaper all the pieces with 
sandpaper folded around a block, touching off all the sharp 
arrises. 



IV. Assembling. 

(i) On one arris of one of the slats lay out the proper 
spacing for the slats. These are 3/16" apart (see Fig. 5). With 



Scrap Basket g 

a sharp pencil transfer this to each edge of the bottom and to 
the outside of the frame already made. A mere dot is sufficient. 
(2) Nail the slats to the bottom with brads (%", No. 18), 
one brad to each slat, and that one just off the center, to make 
room for the upholstery nail, which will be driven in later to 
cover it. The ends of the slats are flush with the lower surface 
of the bottom. 




Fig. 5. Arrangement of slats. 



(3) Tack the frame temporarily in place, lY^" from the 
top of the slats, nailing with brads from the inside of the frame 
at the corners. (4) Set up the basket, and see that all is square. 

(5) To have something solid to nail against, cut a stick of 
wood just the right length to fit snugly between two opposite 
members of the frame. 

(6) Nail each slat in its place on the frame, using up- 
holstery nails and a mallet, two rows of upholstery nails at the 
frame and one row along the bottom. 

V. The feet. (8 pieces ^;' x %" x 3^"-) 

(i) Saw off from the remnant (16" long) two pieces y%" 
thick, }i" wide. (2) Saw each of these into two equal rectangular 
pieces 7" long. 

(3 ) From both ends cut out the returns with the back saw 
and trim with the chisel. (4) Cut each of these pieces in the 
middle at an angle of 45°, as in Fig. 6, making 8 pieces. (5) On 
the outside of each, cut out the decoration with a veining tool 
or a sharp knife point. (6) Chamfer the long outer arris as in 
A, Fig. 6. (7) Nail these pieces in mitered pairs at the corners 



10 



Elementary IVoodtvorking 



of the bottom, letting them project outside of the slats just the 
width of the chamfer. 

VI. Finishing. 

(i) See that all surfaces are clean of finger and pencil 
marks. (2) x\pply the stain (Bridgeport Wood Finishing Corn- 




Fig. 6. Feet of scrap basket. 



pany's Penetrating Oil Stain is recommended) with a brush (i"), 
'beginning on the inside. (3^- Wipe each portion before it dries 
with cotton waste. See that no parts are left unstained. (4) 
Rub hard the outer surface with cheese cloth. The more rubbing 
the better the appearance. 



II. PICTURE FRAME CLAMP 

The chief new processes involved in this project are boring 
and perpendicular chiseling. Other projects that involve these 
fundamental processes are : Pencil holders, a solitaire game, and 
tool racks. 

A pair of these arms with the attached blocks, as shown in 
Fig. 7, make an excellent clamp for gluing together picture 
frames. In use, they appear as in Fig. 254, "Hand Work in 




Fig. 7. Picture frame clamp. 



Wood." Unless they are to be used often, the arms may be 
made of yellow poplar, but maple will stand harder and longer 
usage. In any case, the blocks should be made of maple. 

For more expHcit directions for this project and for sugges- 
tions for other similar projects, see "Studies in Wood," 
Chapter V. 



12 



Elementarv Woodworking 



Materials and Measurements. 

4 pieces of yellow poplar: V^" x i^A" x i6". 
6 pieces of maple: %" x i>4" x 3^". 
8 round head screws: i^^" No. 12. 

Method of Procedure. 
I. The arms. 

(i) Dress up the four pieces of yellow poplar to size. 
(2) Lay out a quarter circle at one end of each piece and trim 
to shape with perpendicular chiseHng (see "Hand Work in 
Wood," p. 56, Fig. y2). (3) Finish with spoke-shave ("Hand 
Work in Wood," Fig. 120). 




Fig. 8. Method of sawing stop blocks of picture frame vise. 



(4) Gage center lines from end to end on both broad sides 
of each piece. (5) Step off with the compass on these center 
lines the points for the holes, as shown in drawing (Fig. 7). 

(6) Bore the holes. Note that the hole ly^" from the 
quadrantal end is %" in diameter. 

(7) With a ^2" chisel cut out the space between each 7/16" 
and 14" hole. Take care to make these cuts parallel to sides of 
piece. 

II. The blocks. 

( 1) Dress up six pieces of maple, %" x i]^" x 3^". (2) Lay 
out the shape on four of these with an interior 90° angle at both 
ends. (Fig. 8.) (3) Trim ofit" a little of all the arrises across 
the thickness. (4) Saw out these angles with back saw, and trim 
clean with sharp chisel. 

(5) Locate a point lYz" from one end of each piece in 
center of broad face. (6) Bore at these points holes for screws 



Picture Frame Clamp 13 

with No. 5 gimlet bit. (7) Screw in round-headed screws, 
i>^" No. 12, till head is Ji" from surface. 

(8) In hinge pieces (the other 3^" pieces) bore holes 
partly through with No. 5 gimlet bit. (9) Slip screws (ij4" 
No. 12) through hole in quadrantal end of long pieces and screw 
to hinge pieces. 

(10) Oil all parts with boiled linseed oil and wipe oflf with 
cotton waste. 



III. PICTURE FRAME 

For a discussion of the subject of picture framing, see 
"Studies in Wood," Chapter VI. Numerous suggestions for 
variations and embelHshments will also be found there. 

Another project involving similar processes is a glass bot- 
tomed tea tray. (See "Studies in Wood," Chapter VI.) 

The directions that follow are for a simple frame for a 
Japanese print of a crow, as seen in Fig. 9. The size of the 
print is 9j4" x 13^"- 

Materials and Measurements. 

White pine: Ji" x i" x 40". 

Picture glass: g%" x 13^". 

Picture backing: li" x 9^4" x I3>^". 

2 dozen brads : }i" No. 18. 

2 screw eyes, (l^" hole), (Brooks, No. 214^). 

A little maple veneering 1/28" thick. 

Manila paper. 

Picture wire. 

Method of Procedure. 

I. Making the members. 

(i) Taking the wood in two pieces, each 24" long, plane to 
exact width (i") and thickness (H"), and angles exactly square. 

(2) Plow a rabbet ^" wide and Yi" deep along one arris, 
as at A, in Fig. 10. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 79.) 

(3) To prevent the fence of the plane from rubbing on the 
bench, block up the piece to be planed on another piece, such as 
shown in Fig. 11. 

(4) Cut the miters, making the outside measure of the long 
members 14%" and of the short members, loj/g"- Place the 
molding in the miter box as in Fig. 12. (5) Test the opposite 
members to see that they are of exactly the same length. 

(6) Test all angles with miter square and try square. 
iy) If necessary, trim miters with block-plane. 



Picture Frame 



15 




Fig. 9. Framcrl Japanese prints. 



i6 



Elementary IV oodworking 



II. Assembling. 

(i) Make trial assembly in picture frame damp (Fig. 7) 
with hand screw and test with try square. 



A 



^ 



k'^ 




If 



\ 



Fig. 10. End view of rabbeted strip. 




Fig. 11. Device for holding strips when rabbeting. 



Picture Frame 



17 



(2) Apply glue to miters, assemble, clamp up, and test for 
squareness. (3) When dry (after 6 hours), cut saw kerfs as 
a b in Fig. 13; apply glue to both sides of slip feathers of maple 
veneering, and insert these in saw kerfs. 

(4) Trim off surplus of slip feathers with back saw. 
(5) Clean off glue with chisel. (6) Dress up the front surface 
and the edges with plane cutter well sharpened and set fine. 
(7) Sandpaper in the direction of the grain only. 



/ 



Molding 



M/fer Box 



\ 



Fig. 12. Position of molding in miter box. 



Ill, Finishing. 

(i) Stain to proper color and wax. (See "Hand Work in 
Wood," p. 214.) (2) Cut picture backing to proper size, 9J/2" 
X 13%"- (3) Cut glass and polish it with Bon Ami soap. 
(4) Lay frame face down, insert glass, picture and backing, and 
nail all in place with brads, %" No. 18, using a light hammer. 

^5) Apply a thin film of liquid glue to back of frame; 
dampen the manila paper on one side and stretch over back of 
frame. When dry, trim edges. 

(6) Insert screw eyes, 2" from the top edge. (7) Stretch 
picture wire between screw eyes. 



i8 



Elementary Woodworking 




Fig. 13. Kerfs cut in corners of picture frame to receive slip-feathers. 



IV. CANDLESTICK 

The structural feature of this project is the middle cross- 
lap joint. Other projects that involve this construction are: 
flower pot stands, with single or double joint, a ring toss game, 
and the base of a lamp screen. 

The candlestick itself, however, has many artistic possibili- 
ties, suggestions for which will be found in "Studies in Wood, 
Design and Construction," Chapter V'll. Suggestions and 
sketches of other projects may also be found there. 

It is suggested that in order to become familiar with the 
making of the joint, a practice joint be made first of white pine. 

The directions which follow are for making the candlestick 
shown in Fig. 14. 

Materials and Measurements. 
Mahogany or black walnut: 

A. I piece, %" x i^" x 11". 

B. I piece, 3/s" x 2^3" x 8>^". 

C. I piece, Tj4" x iV/' x 3". 
Brads, 34" No. 18. 

Copper, Gage No. 20: i piece, lys" x i^" ; i piece, i" 
X3". 

Method of Procedure. 
I. The pedestal. 

(i) Dress up all surfaces of piece A to ^" x i^" x 11" 
("Hand Work in Wood," p. 72). (2) From each dressed end 
saw a piece 5" long, using the back saw. (See "Handwork in 
Wood," page 66.) (3) Dress the sawn ends smooth and true. 

(4) Of these pieces make the middle cross-lap joint ac- 
cording to directions given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. 
(5) Cut with a block plane the chamfers on the ends of all the 
pieces and with a chisel the stop chamfers on the sides. (6) With 
a gouge of the correct curve, cut out the coves along the upper 
arrises. 

(7) Glue together the two pieces with hot glue, clamping 
tight. When dry, clean up and sandpaper. 



20 



Elementary Woodworking 



II. The column. (i^>^" x i^>^" x 3".) 

(i) Dress up the piece C square and true. (2) Mortise one 
end into the pedestal at the cross ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 
160.) (3) Gage the lines EF and GH (Fig. 15) and connect 
these points with a fine pencil line to the lower corners as FI 
and HJ. (4) Taper the two opposite sides so laid out. 




Fig. 14. Candlestick. 



(5) Lay out the other two sides in a similar way, as at 
LJ and MK, and plane to shape. (6) Cut the coves to corre- 
spond with those of the pedestal. (7) Sandpaper. (8) Glue 
the column into its place, clamping with handscrew. 



Candlestick 



21 



III. The feet. (4 pieces, Ys" x 2" x 2".) 

(i) Plane up piece B to ^" x 2" x 83/^". (2) Chamfer or 
cove the arrises on the edges and ends as in Fig. 14. (3) Cut 
off from both ends, pieces 2" long and bevel the inner ends as 
in Fig. 14. (4) Chamfer or cove the ends again, cut off two 
more pieces, and bevel. (5) Sandpaper. (6) Fasten these feet 
in their proper places with brads (^4" No. 18) and a touch of 
glue. 




Fig. 15. Lay-out of column for candlestick. 

IV. Finish. 

(i) For staining mahogany make a saturate solution of 
bichromate of potash. It dissolves readily in hot water. With 
one part of this and three of water paint the surface and wipe 
off at once with cotton waste. (2) When dry, rub with steel 
wool No. 00. 

(3) Oil with a mixture of one part boiled linseed oil and two 
parts turpentine. AVipe dry and rub often and hard with a rag 
and a little oil. If more gloss is desired, wax the surface. (See 
"Hand Work in Wood," p. 214.) 



V. The copper socket and plan.^ 

(i) Cut with the snips a piece of copper, No. 20 gage, i" 



1 For detailed directions for making the copper parts, see "Studies in Wood, 
Design and Construction," Chapter VII. 



22 



Elementary Woodworking 



wide and a little longer than the circumference of the candle 
(%" diameter). Pound this flat with mallet and file long edges 
straight and parallel. (2) File end edges with a slight bevel as 
in Fig. 16. (3) Hammer into a cylinder as shown in Fig. 17. 
(4) Wrap with binding wire to hold joint tight; touch joint 
with soldering fluid. (5) Lay a short piece of wire solder inside 
on joint, and heat over a gas jet. When solder melts rub it 
into place with a sharp stick. 




Fig. 16. Ends of strip for socket beveled so as to butt well. 




Fig. 17. Method of hammering a cylinder out of a strip. 



(6) For making the pan cut out a square of copper i^" 
square, snip off the sharp corners, and file edges smooth. 
(7) Bore two holes in bottom (Fig. 18) and countersink. 



Candlestick 



23 





Fig. 18. Plan for candlestick. 



Fig. 19. Socket and pan wired together for 
soldering. 



(8) Wire socket and pan together as in Fig. 19, and solder to- 
gether. (9) Clean up solder with knife and polish with tripoli. 
(10) Screw pan to top of column of candlestick. 



V. TABORET 

Directions follow for making the simple form shown in 
Fig. 20. Other projects which involve the joints used in this 
taboret are foot stools and small tables, both of which are sub- 
ject to great variety of design. 




Fig. 20. Taboret. 



A variety of modifications of the type shown in Fig. 21, as 
well as suggestions for new designs for this and similar projects. 



Taboret 25 

are to be found in "Studies in Wood, Design and Construc- 
tion," Chapter VIII. 

Materials and Measurements. 
Cypress or chestnut : 

A. 4 pieces, ^" x zV^" x 17". 

B. 2 pieces, -^" x 2" x 8^". 

C. 2 pieces, Kt" ^^ 2j/^" x 85^". 

D. I piece, 34" ^^ 13" ^ 13"- 
16 dowel pins, 5/16" x iVa". 

4 brass mending straps, 3^" x 2", No. 60. 
12 screws, ^", No. 4. 
16 brads, 2 J/2", No. 12. 

Method of Procedure. 

I. Dressing up parts. 

(i) Plane up four pieces A to proper size. (2) To trim 
ends exactly, hand screw all four together and block plane at one 
time. (3) Plane up stretchers B and C in like manner. (4) 
Make cross-lap joints with pieces E and C according to directions 
given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. (5) Glue up these 
joints and hand screw. 

II. Fitting stretchers to legs. 

(i) Draw fine pencil line all round each leg 3^^" from one 
end. (See Fig. 22.) (2) On inside of leg mark points 3/16" 
from edge. These show location of stretchers. (3) On outside 
of leg mark points %" from edge. These show location of 
dowel pins. (4) Mark center lines on edges of stretchers B and 
C. (Fig. 23.) (5) Draw fine pencil line across center of upper 
end and down inside and outside of leg as CDE in Fig. 24. 
(6) Locate points A and B (Fig. 24) for dowels. 

III. Shaping the legs, 

(i) Clamp two legs together edge to edge, as in Fig. 25, 
and bore y^" hole at A halfway through. (2) Reverse and bore 
through. (3) Repeat on all edges. (4) Draw outlines tangent 
to these holes. (5) Work out surplus wood with draw-shave 
and spoke-shave. 



26 



Elementary W oodworking 




Fig. 21. Working drawing of taboret. 



Taboret 



27 




Fig. 22. Lay-out of joint of lower 
stretcher with leg. 







Fig. 23. Centre lines AB and CD 
marked on stretchers. 



c 







Fig. 24. Lay-out of joint of upper 
stretcher with leg. 



IV. Assembling frame. 

(i) Cut 16 dowel pins, 5/16" x i^". (2) Partly point one 
end with dowel pointer and round up other end as in Fig. 26, 
with knife and sandpaper, (3) At the points in the legs marked 
for dowel holes bore through the legs with a No. 40 twist drill. 



V 


(1 ^ 1 


;*_l/^ 


r-^ 



Fig. 26. Dowel pin for taboret. 



28 



Elementary Woodzvorking 




Fig. 25. Method of shaping legs. 



Taboret 29 

(4) Put a little hot glue on each end of stretchers and nail 
the legs to them with 2Y2" No. 12 brads, allowing heads to 
project. 

(5) Clamp all together as in Fig. 248, "Hand Work in 
Wood," protecting the legs with soft wood blocks. (6) When 
dry, draw out one brad at a time, bore with 5/16" bit a hole 2" 
deep. (7) Work glue into the hole with a splinter and drive in 
a dowel pin leaving the rounded end projecting )/%" . (8) Clean 
off superfluous glue. (9) Sandpaper, taking pains to touch off 
all sharp arrises. 

V. Making and affixing top. 

(i) Plane up the top to size, 13" x 13". (2) If the piece 
has to be jointed, follow the directions for a rubbed joint on 
pages 172-174, "Hand Work in Wood." (3) Lay out the oc- 
tagon ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 108), saw off corners and 
dress to size. (4) Chamfer arrises. 

(5) At extreme ends of each upper stretcher cut out a 
notch to receive brass mending plates (><" x 2", No. 60). 
(6) Bore hole in middle of brass plate to receive ^", No. 4 
screw and countersink on opposite side from the other coun- 
tersinks. (7) Screw these into place as in Fig. 21. (8) On the 
top laid top side down, locate the frame with the grain of the top 
parallel to one stretcher, and screw frame into place. 

(9) Stain with an appropriate color, oil with boiled linseed 
oil, and rub. (to) To stain chestnut a brown color, expose it to 
ammonia fumes in a closed box for 24 hours, and then oil. 



VI. MALLET 

Some of the processes involved in making the mallet, as 
curved planing, accurate boring, and modeling, are also to be 
had in the blotter holder (Section VIII). Dimensions are to be 
seen in Fig. 28. More explicit directions will be found in 
"Studies in Wood," Chapter IX. 

Materials and Measurements. 

Maple: i piece, 2>4" x 25^^" x 5" for head. 
Hickory: i piece, %" x i^" x 11" for handle. 

Method of Procedure. 
I. The head. 

(i) Plane up working face, working edge, width and thick- 
ness. (2) With try square and sharp pencil draw fine center line 
across all sides. (ABC, Fig. 2y.) (3) Locate center of two oppo- 
site sides on these lines. 




P'ig. S7. Maple block for mallet head. 



(4) Bore ^" hole at these points, boring halfway through 
from each side. Use ratchet brace and after starting, work with 
down stroke only. (5) If the holes do not meet exactly, chisel 
off remaining shoulder with inside bevel gouge (H")- 
(6) Slightly elongate hole in direction of grain at one surface. 
(Fig. 29.) (7) Lay out shape of head on broad side (Fig. 30). 
(8) Score, with knife point, the lines for bevels at ends, EC and 
BD (Fig. 30). 



Mallet 



31 




Fig. 28. Working drawing of mallet. 



32 



Elementary Woodivorking 



(9) Lay a piece of waste wood on the bench, the mallet 
head on this on its side and on this, clamp a square, straight 
piece of wood, exactly along the scored bevel line, EC, Fig. 30. 

(10) Saw off surplus with cross-cut saw. Repeat at BD. 
(11) Plane ends with jack plane cutter well sharpened and set 




Fig. 29. How the handle hole tapers out. 

fine. (12) Draw-shave and then plane off across grain the 
curved outer surface. (13) Chamfer outer arris to avoid 
splintering. 

II. The handle. 

(i) True up the hickory piece to ^" (full) x 1^2" x 11". 
(2) Lay out plan of handle from center line on both broad sides. 




Fig. 30. Lay-out of sides of mallet head. 



(3) Bore }i" hole, i" from hand end through short axis, (4) 
Rip-saw off waste on edges, starting from both ends. To start on 
the tapering cut, clamp on block A (Fig. 7,2) and start sawing 



Mallet 



33 




Fig. 32. Method of 

starting a saw on 

a tapering 

cut. 




Fig. 31. Lay-out for beveled sides (seen 
from below). 




Fig. 33. Wedge for handle. 



at B. (5) Save one of the pieces sawn off for wedge to be 
used later. 

(6) Spoke-shave to Hnes, keeping piece rectangular, (y) 
Draw center lines on both edges and on ends. (8) Lay out 45° 
chamfers along all long arrises. (9) Spoke-shave these cham- 
fers. (10) Fit small end of handle in hole in head. (11) Spoke- 
shave large end to elliptical section. (12) Scrape smooth and 
sandpaper, 

(13) Cut saw kerf i" deep at small end parallel with short 
axis of ellipse at other end. (14) Make wedge as in Fig. 33. 
(15) Drive handle in head, letting handle project Ys". (16) Dip 
wedge in glue and drive it into saw kerf. (17) Saw off surplus 
of wedge, and clean up. (iS) Give head two coats of shellac, 
and rub down with steel wool. 



VII. PEN TRAY 

The process of gouging which is characteristic of the making 
of a pen tray is, of course, appHcable to trays for other purposes 
as for comb and brush, pins or cHps, crumbs, trinkets, etc. 

Directions follow for making the pen tray shown in Fig. 
270, "Hand Work in Wood." Plan and cross section of this 
are shown in Fig. 35. (See also Fig. 34.) Numerous other 
designs and suggestions for designing, as well as more explicit 
directions for making various kinds of trays, are to be found 
in "Studies in Wood," Chapter X. 
Materials and Measurements. 

Sweet gum: y^" x 2^4" x 9." 




Fig. 34. Pen tray and rolling blotter holder. 



Method of Procedure. 

(i) Dress up four surfaces to size. (2) Draw center lines 
lengthwise and crosswise on face. (3) Draw the design on stiff 
paper, lay it on glass and with a sharp knife-point cut a stencil 
of one-quarter of it. With this stencil lay out design on working 
face of board. 

(4) Make a depth-gage by driving a i" nail into a straight 
strip of wood, letting the nail project the amount of the depth of 
the trough, }i". (5) Gouge out trough of tray with i" outside 
bevel gouge. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 60 and Fig. 82.) 



Pen Tray 



35 



^ 



'•S 



^ 



^' 



"^ ^ 



Fig. 35. Pen Tray. 



36 Elementary IVoodzvorking 

Finish gouging with twisting motion of gouge, and test depth 
frequently with depth-gage. Take particular pains at ends. 
(6) Scrape surface of trough with cabinet scraper. For method 
of sharpening, see p. 92 "Hand Work in Wood." (7) Sandpaper 
the trough smooth. 

(8) Carve the decorations. For simple line work, as in this 
design, a small gouge or "veining tool" is sufficient. Cut clean 
with a sharp tool and do not attempt to sandpaper the lines. 

(9) Shape the ends, first with the chisel ("Hand Work in 
Wood," pp. 56 and 57), chiseling as smooth as possible, and then 
use sandpaper on a block. (10) Turning the piece on its face, 
gouge a cove along the arris of the under side. This may be 
made into an ogee with the chisel. (11) Scrape smooth, and 
sandpaper. 

(12) Rub all over with steel wool (No. cxd) to make as 
smooth as possible. (13) Oil with boiled linseed oil. (14) Ap- 
ply several coats of white shellac, rubbing each down with steel 
wool. (15) French polish according to directions in "Hand Work 
in Wood," p. 127. 



VIII. ROLLING BLOTTER HOLDER 

Directions follow for the design shown in Fig. 34. For 
other designs and more explicit directions see "Studies in Wood," 
Chap. XL 

Materials and Measurements. 
Sweet gum : 

A. I piece, ^." x 3" x 5" (full). 

B. I piece, 14" X 3" x 5" (full). 

C. I piece, i"x i"x2" (full). 
I dowel, }i". 

Method of Procedure. 

(i) The construction is shown in Fig. 36. (2) True up 
to size the two larger pieces, A and B. (3) Locate the 'center 
of face of each piece. (4) Bore ^" hole through B and 5/16" 
hole through A and a 5/16" hole nearly through C. 

(5) With tap belonging to screw-box cut threads in holes 
in A and C. (6) With screw-box cut threads on dowel for two 
inches. (7) Put a little glue in hole of piece C and screw in 
dowel. 

(8) Piece C is taken two inches long to prevent splitting 
while boring. Cut off the surplus half inch at each end of piece. 
(9) Lay out form on two opposite sides, chisel and gouge sides 
into shape. (10) Lay out form on these two sides and work the 
other two into shape, and finally, using also file and sandpaper, 
work into circular shape and finish.^ 

(11 ) Gouge the decoration on knob C and on cover B. (12) 
Lay out curve on edge of A. (13) Saw off surplus with rip- 
saw and smooth with the plane across the grain, holding the piece 
in the bench vise, and tilting it with one end projecting above 
the bench. (13) Finish the edges as at AA, Fig. 36. 

(14) Sandpaper all parts thoroughly. (15) Finish with 
oil and shellac as in the case of the pen tray. (16) Fasten a 
pad of felt on rounded surface of block A by means of thick 
shellac. (17) Insert blotting paper of proper size. 



* This knob would better be turned on a lathe if one is available. 



38 



Elementary Woodworking 




Fig. 36 Rolling blotter holder. 



IX. TRINKET BOX 

The variety of uses to which boxes can be put, as, for ex- 
ample, gloves, cigars, neckties, stationery, toilet articles, cutlery, 
not to speak of bird houses and plant boxes, gives this project a 
constant interest. Other designs and suggestions will be found 
in "Studies in Wood," Chapter XII. For the variety of joints 
possible, see "Hand Work in Wood," pp. 187-190. 

The directions which follow are for a box 3" deep, 4" wide 
and 7" long, outside dimensions. (Fig. 37.) 

Materials and Measur extents. 
Black walnut or mahogany : 
I piece, ^^"x8"x2o". 
2 brass butt hinges: i", narrow. 
8 flathead brass screws : V^", No. 2. 
Brads: i", No. 18. 

Method of Procedure. 

(i) Cut from the board 2 pieces 3" wide and 12" long, each 
sufficient for one side and one end. (2) Dress up working face, 
working edge, one end, the width (2%") and thickness (5/16"). 

(3) From dressed ends measure 3^". Score all around 
with knife point and cut out saw groove. (See "Hand Work in 
Wood," Fig. 91.) Do not saw off yet. 

(4) Plow rabbets 3/16" deep from face of board and 5/16" 
wide from edge along one edge of each 12" board. (See "Hand 
Work in Wood," p. 79.) (5) On other edge of both boards 
plow out rabbet 3/16" deep and 3/16" wide. (See Fig. 38.) 

(6) Saw off pieces 3^" (to be ends of box) and block 
plane true. Both pieces must be exactly the same size, 5/16" x 
2^" X 3^", and all angles square. 

(7) On both ends of each side piece cut rabbets ("Hand 
Work in Wood," p. 179, No. 24) with the shoulders 6^" apart, 
rabbet 3/16" deep, letting surplus project as in Fig. 39. Use 
knife, back-saw and chisel. 

(8) Apply a little glue on joints (liquid glue will do), 
clamp up as in Fig. 40, and nail sides and ends together, locating 



40 



Elementary IVoodzvorking 




Fig. 37. Trinket box. 




Fig. 38. Methods of affixing the top of the box 



Trinket Box 



41 




Fig. 39. Rabbeted side of box. 



brads as in Fig. 41, and driving as in Fig. 40. (9) Nail-set 
brads, and stop up nail holes with plugs of same kind of wood 
trimmed to fit and glued in. Set away to dry. 

(10) When dry, clean up any superfluous glue and dress 
upper edges perfectly plain. 

(11) Plane bottom to exact size. Glue and brad it into 
place. 

(12) Plane top piece to thickness 5/16". Make edges true 
and square, but the size slightly larger than necessary. 

(13) Plow rabbets on all its edges, 3/16" deep, and wide 
enough so that top will fit into place. ( 14) Glue on top, clamp- 
ing with hand screws and with protecting boards between. (15) 
When dry (6 hours) dress off projecting parts. 



42 



Elementary Woodworking 




Fig. 40. Method of driving brads in box. 



^ 



V 





V 






, 






•^\ A"-- 








^ 






> 


K'/i 




.V. 




A 



Fig. 41. Location of brads in end of box. 



Trinket Box 43 

(16) Gage two parallel lines, }i" and %" from top, on sides 
and ends. (17) Saw box apart between these two lines. (18) 
Dress these edges to perfect planes, so that they fit exactly. 
(19) Set the hinges. (For directions, see "Hand Work in 
Wood," p. 132.) 

(20) Clean up thoroughly, sanding off the outer arrises ex- 
cept those where the lid and box meet. (21) Stain with bi- 
chromate of potash if wood is mahogany. (See above, p. 21 ) 
(22) Rub down with steel wool. (23) Coat with Wheeler's 
Paste Wood Filler (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 213), No. 7, 
for mahogany, or No. 10 for black walnut. 

(24) When dry, touch up carefully with steel wool, shellac 
and finish like tray. (See p. 36.) (25) Instead of shellac, the 
box may be well oiled and rubbed often. 



X. HANGING LANTERN 

A variety of designs both for hanging lanterns and wall 
lanterns and lamp screens will be found in "Studies in Wood," 
Chapter XIII. Only one form of hanging lantern is described 
here. (See Fig. 43.) 

Materials and Measurements. 
Yellow poplar, 5/16" thick: 
For the corners or stiles: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i" x 8"; 4 pieces, 

5/16" X 11/16" X 8". 
For the cross pieces or rails: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i^" x 4^"; 

4 pieces, 5/16" x i%" x 4>^". 
For the horizontal cross slats: 4 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x 4^". 
For the muntins (vertical slats) : 8 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x 

S%"; 2 cleats, 5/16" x q/i6" x 3"; i stretcher, 5/16" x 

3" X SH"- 
Manila or brown paper for lining. 
4 screw eyes. No. 214^. 
Copper or brass chains for suspension. 
Corrugated fasteners, 3/16". 

Method of Procedure. 

(i) Dress all these pieces to size. Work with as long 
pieces as is convenient to plane and then cut to proper lengths. 

(2) Where there are a number to cut to one length, make 
a jig by fastening a stop in miter box at proper distance and saw 
off pieces by that means. If accurately sawn no truing is neces- 
sary. 

(3) Dress ends of stiles smooth. 

(4) Shape rails, upper and lower, with chisel and spoke 
shave. 

(5) Fit cross-lap joints of slats. For direc- 
tions for making this joint see "Hand Work in 
Wood," p. 155. (6) Glue together. 

(7) Make up corners by gluing stiles to- 
gether, as Fig. 42. (8) When dry dress off outer ^. 

. Fig. 42. Cor- 

SUriaceS. ner posts of 

lantern. 



I — n 



Honaina Lantern 



45 



(9) Nail two slats about 9" long on a flat board 7^" apart, 
as AA in Fig. 44. 

(10) Prepare two wedges BB 8" long, 5/16" thick, and 
tapering from 9/3" wide to a point, and a buffer strip C. 






m 







uri=^5 



^ 



ni in 



Fig. 43. Hanging lantern. 



FEB ^B 1913 

46 



Elementary Woodworking 



A 






A( |>/V 



A.SA 



A wN 



5 



u 



5\ 



fi 



Qh 



d 



<» 



Fig. 44. Method of clamping up the parts. 



(11) Lay the pieces on one side, outside down, in their 
proper position in this space. (12) Put in strip C and drive in 
wedges BB. (13) See that all is square and flat as in Fig. 44. 

(14) At all joints drive 3/16" corrugated fasteners. 

(15) Repeat on all sides. 

(16) Stain with brown oil-stain, and rub well. 

(17) Cut brown or manila paper and glue on inside with 
liquid glue. (18) Fasten in place with glue and brads two nar- 



Hanging Lantern 



47 




Fig. 45. Drawing of lantern shown in Fig. 43. 



row cleats 5/16" x 5/16" x 3", as a in Fig. 45. (19) To these 
cleats nail stretcher b, 3/16" x 3" x 5^". (20) To middle of 
this stretcher screw a copper candle holder (socket and pan) 
made as for project IV. (21) If electric light is to be used, 
fasten this stretcher to the upper rail and attach socket for bulb. 
(22) Screw four small screw eyes (No. 214^) into each 
of the upper inside covers and attach four copper or brass chains 
or wires for suspension. 



FEB 28 1913 



LIBKHKY Ul- UUNOKt^b 



mill 

013 973 739 8 



